An EPIC journey

Over this past weekend I traversed the Manali to Leh Highway.  The distance is only about 300 miles, but the trip takes over 2 days because you literally travel up and down the some of the highest mountain passes in the world.  I was told that it was the "”highest motorable road in the world".  Turns out this is a lie – it’s actually second.  Still, its a ridiculous road and I’m excited enough about it that I’m forgoing writing my Columbia MBA essays to do this blog post instead.    

The road was built , is maintained, and mostly used by the Indian Army to prepare for the day when China decides to invade.  The road is only open between July – September because the weather is shit the rest of the year.  We got lucky that it opened in time for our trip, because a week before we left there were still avalanches and heavy snow storms on the route.

First…the hyperbole

I wish I could use pictures and words to describe this journey, but I know that there is simply no way I can convey the feeling of driving on this road.  It honestly felt like we’d left Earth and were roaming around Mars.  The word “spectacular” doesn’t even come close to accurately describing this journey.  The best I can do is to say it was “like being in Iceland"(minus the social liberalism).  Totally Un(fuckin)real.  

The road goes up, down, through, over, and around mountains, canyons, valleys, rivers, and deserts.  Within 2 hours we’d move from cold-weather sand dune deserts to snow-capped peaks (keep in mind that this is JULY...in INDIA). There are points where we climbed to over 17,000 feet.   Just to give you a point of reference – most commercial airlines fly at about 25,000 – 45,000 feet.  So we were literally driving in the sky. 

Next…the pictures

Our pimped out ride:

Our illustrious driver – Ashok-Ji.  Our lives were in his hand. 

Inside the car.  We took a random Indian couple in the backseat to share the costs and save some money.  I said exactly 3 word to them in 2 days. 

The car had this on the right side sun-visor

and THIS on the left side sun visor.  Kareena Kapoor and her slutty friends on the left and Sai Baba on the right.  Welcome to India.

Day 1: July 4, 2010

This is 1 of 35 waterfalls we saw along the route. 

Keylong, one of the stops on the way.

On the edge

We basically shared the road with AIDS carriers (aka: Indian truck drivers) and Indian army troops. 

Honestly, the most beautiful view I’ve ever seen.

This could have been my last group shot.  Ever.

In retrospect, this might not have been the best idea.

The Rohtang Pass – 13,000 feet up – and one of the most scenic points of the journey.  After this point, most of us start slowly succumbing to altitude sickness.   In the worst case, altitude sickness can lead to brain swelling and death.  Fortunately, for most of us all we had to deal with was nausea, headaches, dizziness and some difficulty breathing.   I also got a bit “loopy” (i.e. giddy and too honest). 

Indian Army hot on our trail

Helping out some folks stuck in a stream crossing.  My one good deed of the day (I slept through this whole incident).

Typical dhaba where we’d get breakfast and chai.  If I showed you the picture of the kitchen I think you’d question my judgment.

Still, aloo paranthas taste especially good at 8,000 feet up.

Oh and lots of sugar-loaded chai (I asked for equal and got a dirty look) and maggi noodles (i convinced myself they were whole-wheat). 

Our tented camp site for our one night in Sarchu.  We woke up in 80 F weather and went to bed in sub-zero temperatures.  I wore 6 layers of clothing to bed and had an additional 4 layers of blankets over me and I was STILL cold.  The altitude sickness didn’t help either – my normal breath wasn’t sucking in enough oxygen so I had to keep waking up to take deep breaths and stay alive.   

Four-some

We find this tent of punjabis.  Naturally they are drunk.

I’m really not sure if I’m proud or embarrassed to be (half) punjabi. 

Day 2:  July 5, 2010

Leaving, bright and early the next morning.  Not a single one of us has showered.  Mainly because it’s not easy to shower with a bucket of ice.

Highest point on our route – 17,000 + feet.

Tibetan prayer flags.

I wish I’d taken more pictures of these signs.  There were hundreds of different “witty” signs from beginning to end.  Some of my favorites off the top of my head were:

“Know AIDS, No AIDS”,

“If you’re married, divorce speed” (But if you’re single, go ahead and die???)

“In the land of the lama, don’t be a gama” (WTF?)

“It’s better to be late, than a late Mr.”

“I like you, but be gentle on my curves”

“You and me baby ain’t nuthin but mammals” (I wish)

As we got close to Leh we started seeing a lot more of these gumpas above.  They are scattered all over Leh.  I honestly felt like I was in Shangri-La or maybe Heaven, not India.

We also started seeing this eerie redish purple rocks and mountains.  Like I said..it felt like we were on Mars.  This picture doesn’t entirely capture how WEIRD this color was on a mountain.

Finally, we reach Leh. 

Quite possibly the most beautiful backdrop of any city on earth.

Leh Palace.  Post on Manali, Shimla, & Leh to come. 

So to sum it up, I’d HIGHLY recommend making this journey.  Yes, there is a decent probability you will die (Indian’s don’t believe in rails along the roads or two lanes) and yes its a bit rough, but its also one of those trips that completely changes how you view the world.  I had no idea the earth could even look like what I saw.  This was the first trip I’ve ever taken where I’ve swore to myself that I’d come back here with my kids (assuming I survived/social services allows me to keep my children).   

I’m off to Beijing tonight.  Ulaanbaatar tomorrow.